French Country Side & Avignon

Fontainebleau

June 13, 2010
We got Rachel and Katie to the train station so they could head for Avignon. Phil and I had decided to check out of the camp ground and head for Fontainebleau – a home built by many French kings about and hour SE of Paris.

We did not have a good map – and consequently got quite lost. What should have taken us about an hour took us 4 hours! We stopped many times to ask directions with limited success. It really was quite frustrating. We finally met a nice older business man at a petrol station – that after trying to give us confusing directions in broken English – and me trying to understand them in fractured French – said the magic words, “Follow me!” After that we were on our way! 

Fontainebleau was fantastic! We passed by Versailles on the way – streets lined with tour busses! I am so glad that we did not go there! Fontainebleau was beautiful and fully furnished. We also received a complementary audio commentary “thingy” with our admission price. It was in English – and really helped to explain our surroundings. I wonder what language the Buddhist monk was listening too?

After Fontainebleau, we drove an hour or so south and ended up in a cool little town called Joigny. It is along a river and the town overlooks the river and is perched on a hillside. Above the town is a vineyard. We are camping in a small camp ground near the lock on the river. After checking in – we went into town to get some supper. We found a Turkish kebab place – the proprietor was very friendly and patient with my French. He spoke little or no English. Regardless, I was able to order two kebabs and frites (French fries), two glasses of wine and later ask for a “coo-toe” (knife) and a “faux-chet” (fork). We ate out at a table on the street.

The street was definitely laid out prior to automobile traffic! The streets are barely wide enough for one car, yet the drive both ways and park on both sides as well! The sidewalks function as parking spots.

I need to find out what the “Salle Claude Debussy” is – it is here. We did find a road named Claude Debussy – and perhaps a theatre named in his honor. Wonder if he is from here? We also saw a school named for Antoine St. de Exupry – the author of The Little Prince.

I’ll end with Phil’s quote de Jour, “I just saw a sign for a crematorie – I wonder if it is a crematorium, something left over from the Nazi’s, or a place to get ice-cream?” I was so punchy-tired that I laughed until I cried.


June 14, 2010 – My 50th Birthday!
Most of today was spent driving through the French countryside. We chose to drive on a national road instead of the toll road (highway). This decision really paid off – we saw the agricultural side of France. Many fields of wheat, corn, wheat, poppies, various legumes (vegetables), wheat, hills of grapes, and more wheat – all “eye-candy for an agricultural nerd. Now we know where all of the wheat comes to make the one baguette/person quota this is required to live in this country. 

We enjoyed the little towns we navigated through – each one seemed to have a church or cathedral (depending upon its size), several red-tiled roofed homes – and every once in a while a castle, It rained on and off – but still the view was spectacular.

As the evening approached, we decided to take the toll road to make up time. We were surprised to find that the speed limit was 130 km (about 78 miles/hour) – only to be asked to slow down to 110 km (66 mph) when it was raining or dark. The French are crazy – yet very competent – drivers.

We finally arrived in Avignon around 9:30 p.m. and with the help of an excellent map and many friendly people we found the home in which Rachel lived last year on rue de la Violette. We were not successful with making connections with Isabella to stay there – but finally got a hold of Rachel (using a borrowed cell phone) and she said to stay at the Hotel Regina. Great – we now had plans for a place to stay. No problem – drive into the city and find the hotel.

Let me explain that Avignon is an ancient walled city. I imagine that the city founders had a hula hoop with in which they threw several boxes of uncooked spaghetti. Where ever they landed – and however they landed – it was decided to put a street. These streets were certainly not created during the same millennia as the automobile.

An hour later – we found our hotel and literally drove up onto the sidewalk in front of the entry door – this, by the way is a common occurrence. We were exhausted, but happy to find kind people within. We were given a room on the 5th floor, right next to Rachel and Katie.

The day ended with a Skyped call to my parents and Ben (who was driving across Arizona on his way to L.A.) What a birthday!


June 15, 2010
Provence is lush! Today we know why – it seems to rain every day! After breakfast in the lobby of our hotel (I received mine free, because they found out it was my birthday), we went and visited the Palais des Papes. In short, it is the fortification / housing quarters of 9 or so popes (depending upon how you count) that lived in Avignon after the papacy was kicked out of Rome. It was occupied for about 100 years.

In the evening, we met Isabella and two of her children (Marie -15 and Pauline - 6) and attended a wonderful band concert. There were three groups that played. First the “apprentices”, next the “junior” band members, and finally the “proficient” band members – with visiting soloists. It was fantastic! The conductor really related well with the members of the band, the music was interesting – and some of it familiar (Pink Panther and Pirates of the Caribbean), and the hall had tremendous acoustics. The concert was in the Opera House. Two of Isabella’s sons (Hugo and Tomas) played percussion. We really enjoyed ourselves.


June 16, 2010
This morning we headed off to the Les Halles food market to purchase items for breakfast. It was similar to Cleveland’s West Side Market. Fresh fruit, vegetables, pastries, spices, meat (some of which was difficult to distinguish (organs, tongue, testicles?, plucked chicken with heads and feet, hooves), fish, etc. I love going to fresh, local markets – it really helps learning nouns as well as gives you a great window into the culture within which you are immersed.

We got some fruit and of course a baguette and headed out to find some coffee – which by the way, is very strong and wonderfully rich. While sitting there in the tabac having our breakfast several fire trucks and an ambulance past by. If it really was a terrific fire, I’m convinced that the building would have burned to the ground before they arrived at the scene – think hula hoop filled with uncooked spaghetti!

After breakfast, we walked to Rue de la Violette to have lunch with the family Rachel lived with last year. Pauline showed us around the garden – frolicking and gracing as she went. We had a nice tour of the home – very nicely decorated. Isabella and I talked long about the quilts and handwork that adorned the walls. We all had to do something to “earn” our meal. Rachel played the piano, Phil did a little percussion number on the trap set, and I played a folk tune on the violin. Isabella’s children are very musical.

We had a lunch of taboulli, pasta, fruit, and lemon torte. It was nice meeting her primo French “family” and seeing where she lived.

This afternoon, we met Rachel’s new “family” – Dr. Eric and Mrs. De Lannoy and their five beautiful children. Dr. De Lannoy is an OB/GYN and Mrs. is a midwife. They live outside of the walled city in a 300 year old villa. It was something you would see in and upscale “Better Homes and Gardens”. The home was airy and nicely appointed and the veranda by the pool was spacious and family friendly. Rachel will have a part of the house as her own. It is somewhat connected – but apart (hard to explain). It is a dream. Such gorgeous surroundings, beautiful – kind people, and in a place she loves. They have a horse, a donkey, and a dog. They showed her the car that will be “hers” for the summer – Suzuki “Jeep”-like car.

She is excited to be with them – and they are excited to have her. They explained that the children kept on asking when Rachel was coming? The children ages 12, 11, 7, 6, and 6 months are angelic. I explained to them that Rachel as very friendly, kind, creative, and musical. They want her to basically “hang out” with the children and talk with them in English. As we were leaving, the youngest son, was upset and would not say good bye to Rachel, because he didn’t want her to go.

I am so very happy for Rachel – this will be a terrific experience for her!

This evening, we took a nice walk along the River Rhône with Rachel and Katie. The Palais des Papes in the evening light is beautiful.

A very “confidence building” experience happened while by the Palais des Papes. I enjoy taking pictures of other people with their cameras. I’ve done it on all of our vacations. This evening, I took a picture of a German couple from Munich. I spoke with them briefly in German. They wanted to know if I was German. When I explained that I was an American, they were surprised and complimented me on my German. I’ve tried so hard to speak French this week – when given the chance to speak in a language I am more familiar with – I was able to do it . . . apparently well. This felt good!