On the road again . . .

July 6, 2010
This was our last full day in Europe. We choose to hang out in Maisons-Lafette which is on the banks of the Seine on the NW edge of Paris. There is a hippodrome in the town. This is a horse race track. The community is like a relaxed Saratoga Springs, NY. There are old houses, stables, lots of shopping and good restaurants . . . oh yeah – and a chateau.

Town and the roads are laid out around a series of round parks (Place Napoleon, Place Marine, Place Colbert to name a few). Many streets radiate outward from each park. Small triangularly shaped pieces of land are found where these many streets cross. Intermingled in all of these streets is a network of groomed sand and fine-gravel paths for horses and their riders. We were glad that we had a map. It was lovely weather and a nice way to wrap up our trip.

In the evening, we had a nice dinner at the Le Avenue restaurant. We have enjoyed eating at various cafes under umbrellas on the street – except for the smoking. We were actually shocked to experience the number of smokers in Europe! We experienced first hand chain smokers of all ages. It’s an obnoxious habit.

We met a retired couple from Vancouver who have been camping their way around Europe for three months! What an inspiration. They are returning to Canada tomorrow.

Upon returning to our caravan we finished packing as much as we could before the morning – and then went up to the camp ground restaurant/bar to have a beer and watch the Uruguay vs. the Netherlands World Cup Soccer Match. The Netherlands won. Tomorrow Spain and Germany play to determine the final two teams.


July 7, 2010
Today was one of the toughest days of our holiday! We had experienced horrific traffic on our way to Maisons-Lafette several days ago. We were afraid that we would experience a repeat performance on the way to the airport. We purchased a good map just incase we had to get off of the highway and make our way through back roads to the airport. Thankfully, we didn’t experience many difficulties – except those which might be expected during Parisian rush hour traffic. Three lane highways become four lanes when motorcycles “split” the traffic – often going at speeds twice that of the other traffic! I’m really glad that Phil did all of the driving!

Our difficulties really started as we approached the airport. We had no clue as to where to return the rental car – and the lack of signs (English or French) complicated matters. After stopping several times to ask directions – we finally found a place to return our car. We were, however, not in the correct terminal. We figured it out – eventually. It is all a part of travel. I’m just very thankful that we padded our schedule with lots of extra time.

I am writing this final entry in the Newark, NJ airport. Our flight from Paris was long (8 hours) – but on time. We have a five hour layover in NJ – and then off to Cleveland.

There will be a lifetime to reflect on our holiday – but the short of it is that we have had a wonderful time – a life changing experience. We did a lot of comparing and contrasting what we experienced in Europe with life in the US. Not all good – not all bad – many differences – some similarities. We would like to make some conscious changes in the way we do some things – but overall, we have recommitted ourselves to travel and life long learning – including increasing our language skills! 

This trip was meant to recognize and celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary. For 28 days Phil and I were in each other’s company almost 24/7. . . It was great! We really like hanging out together and still have lots to share and talk about after all these years. This trip put our relationship in perspective – we love each other very much and are tremendously happy and lucky we found each other. Cheers! Happy Anniversary!

Laon, France

July 5, 2010
We took our time getting going this morning – it was nice to sleep in. We drove in to Laon. It is a walled medieval town on a hill surrounded by a more modern city. Most importantly, it is the home to a magnificent cathedral – the Notre Dame de Laon and the Chapel of the Knights’ Templar. This cathedral was as big – if not bigger than the Notre Dame in Paris. It was less decorated and somewhat in disrepair – but magnificent none the less.

After leaving Laon, our much relaxed state of mind was disrupted as we reencountered Parisian traffic. Eah gads!

We eventually arrived at Camping International at Maisons Laffitte, had supper, and took a very nice walk around the town. We are staying in the same caravan we were in at the beginning of June – we have come full circle.

Tomorrow, we will have a relaxing day around town, packing, repairing luggage, and generally getting ready (physically and mentally) for our return trip to the US on Wednesday. We’ve really come far with our language skills. I was able to order a salad today and explain that I could not have any cheese because I was allergic to milk products. This evening, I purchased two bananas and a grapefruit at a small grocery. Small victories maybe – but good ones at that. This has been a wonderful holiday – one we will never forget.

Beer & Cheese

July 3, 2010
Good Morning! We slept in after our late night. The Crutzen Clan, however, got up early and flew to Spain. Elia said that they would all sleep when they got to her father’s place. What a busy week they had – two boys returning from a year away, company from the states, big party, packing for a holiday – I’m not sure how they held it all together.

Berangere arrived around 11:00, we finished packing, cleaning up our room, said adieu to the dog, and we were on our way to Chimay, France.

We had a terrific time in Chimay. We grabbed some lunch and then met her lovely parents in the “Grand Place” of Chimay. We then went to the Chateau de Chimay. It is unusual in that the royal family still lives there; in fact the royal princess, herself, gave us a tour. The tour was all in French – with lots of dates, people, and history that Berangere found difficult to translate. The palace was nice – especially the chapel, dinning hall, and the theatre which is a replica of the one at Fontainebleau. Evidently, music was a large part of life at the palace. Many of the motifs were musical, the princess talked about a person – long ago – who brought music and lessons to Chimay, and there were frequent concerts in the theatre. At then end of our tour, I shook the princess’s hand, said, “Merci”, and then patted the royal dog on the head.

Berangere’s father the head of the quality control laboratory of the Chimay fromagerie (cheese factory). He gave us an afterhours, behind the scene tour of the factory from milk to final product. It was fascinating! Poor Berangere – she had to translate everything he said about the cheese making process. Many of the technical words she did not know, however, having studied microbiology, Phil and I were able to figure out most of the scientific language. An Erlenmeyer flask is an Erlenmeyer flask in any language – just with a slightly different pronunciation. We really enjoyed the tour. We even got to wear really cool hair nets, gowns, and booties!

Chimay is known for two things – cheese and beer made by the Trappist monks. We went by the bottling factory and to the monastery to see where the beer is made. It is a very simple, peaceful place. The grounds are beautiful. Berangere’s father took us to the cemetery where the monks are buried and showed us the grave of the monk who taught him the art of cheese making.

The evening was capped off with dinner at the Auberge de Poteaupre which has the same name as the newest form of Chimay cheese (poteaupre). A lovely dinner was had by all. Berangere’s father even shared a bite of his eel with Phil and me. {I forgot to mention that we also ate ostrich at Bernards’s and dried horse meat at Portia’s - all interesting gastronomical delights!} We sampled several Chimay beers and Phil enjoyed some cheese as well.

Back at the Fortemps’ charming home, we were given a tour and then retired for a good night’s sleep. I’m sure Berangere was tired as well – she really worked overtime being our tour guide and translator. {Thanks, Berry!}


July 4, 2010 – Independence Day!
We had fun at breakfast naming everything we knew in French – fourchette (fork), couteau (knife) ,banane (banana), café (coffee), suchre (sugar), pamplemousse (grapefruit), lait (milk), etc. The Fortemps had fun listening to our accent. Berangere’s father has been taking English lessons. He is very shy about trying out the language – but named some simple nouns as well.

After breakfast, we went to see three WWII memorials. The most touching one for me was the one with the inscription, “On September 22, 1944 at 11 o’clock were killed here the first heroes of our liberation”. There were 12 to 15 grave sites of men, many of the Americans, who came to liberate the Belgians from German occupation. We also drove to the French border to see where the Americans entered Belgium during the liberation. Phil jumped back and forth into France / Belgium to say that he had been to France more than a dozen times. 

We returned to the Fortemps for a wonderful afternoon with Berangere’s family – mom, dad, grandmother, sister, sister’s boyfriend, and uncle. The weather was beautiful so the event was held outside under a wild cherry tree. Grandmother Fortemps briefly told some stories about her memories of the American soldiers coming to liberate them during 1944. She said that they were very glad to see them and that they brought chocolate bars and chewing gum. It was a great afternoon full of much eating, drinking, laughing, more eating, and playing petanque – the national game of Belgium and France! With a lucky come from behind victory, Berangere’s uncle and I beat Phil and Berangere 20 to 21! It was a lot of fun.

Phil and I left around 6:00 p.m. and headed SW toward Paris. We really enjoyed driving through the agricultural country side. It was so beautiful. We ended up staying at a hotel in Laon, France. Around 11:00 p.m. we heard fireworks. We went outside and saw a display far in the distance. Quietly, we sang the Star Spangled Banner as we celebrated our independence. It has been quite a while since we have been in the Ohio on the 4th of July. This will be one of the most memorable Independence Days.

Brussels - More than chocolate and lace

June 28, 2010
Today we continued checking out Phil’s family’s genealogy in two more villages (Obergimpern and Neckarbischofsheim). We did not find the names we were looking for – and concluded that since they were antibaptists and were persecuted – they probably emigrated to the New World.

We did, however, find a fair number of Rupperts – which is one of my family names.

There is much more to this chapter – ask Phil.

Much of the afternoon and evening was then spent driving to Brussels, Belgium. We arrived at Bernard’s around 10:00 p.m. and found him putting out the trash – how normal. We spent a few hours catching up, and then it was time for bed. Bernard and Elia have a wonderful home. 5-stories (counting the basement), we were on the top floor.

For those not familiar, Bernard Crutzen was an AFS exchange student in my parents’ home during the 1979-1980 school year. I was a sophomore at college. Elia also lived with my parents a few years later as well. Our families have kept in touch. Bernard and his family came to the USA in 2007.


June 29, 2010 – June 3, 2010
Too much has happened to chronicle it all in detail so a list will suffice:
• Many conversations with Bernard and Elia about life, careers, raising children, being homeowners, differences and similarities between the US and Belgium, etc! It’s really neat to have this long distance – long time relationship with such talented people.
• Welcoming two of their sons home from a year in the USA. Diego was with a family and going to school in Pennsylvania and Pablo was at a community college in Knoxville, TN. It was great to learn of their impressions and sense first hand their adjustment to life in the US and now back in Brussels. They are both very talented and personable young men. It was a real pleasure getting to know them a bit better.
• Luna (age 13) – their only daughter is a love. She is very talented (music and dance), a hard worker, and over all a very happy child. We had fun cooking, playing piano, and watching Michael Jackson U-tube videos together. Her English is just about as good as my French – so long in-depth conversations about the currency issues facing the EU were not possible – perhaps after I learn more French. 
• Phil, Bernard, and I rode the “Green Way” around the city of Brussels. It is a 53 km perimeter bike ride. It is new and some of the signs are not well placed – so it was much like a scavenger ride. We saw parts of Brussels the normal tourist would not see. It was challenging – but nice to do something physical.
• Phil and I went downtown for a day by ourselves. We went to the Grand Place, a cathedral, and of course the Manneken-Pis (a much-photographed statue of a little boy who thinks he’s a fountain – when in actuality, he is just relieving himself).
• We also spent a wonderful day with Berangere. We were he host parents a few years ago – when she was the French language assistant at the College of Wooster. She took us to some of her favorite sites and found us a tour of the European Union Parliament. It was great seeing her as well as having her practice her tour guide skills – she’s great! The evening with her was spent at a terrific Vietnamese restaurant, sampling some of the local beers (Chimay – of course!), and watching the hubbub of the capital of the EU.
• Our last day at Bernard’s was capped with a “Welcome Home” party for the boys. Bernard expected about 40 people – there were more like 60+ (including Berangere). It was fun. We met many of his and Elia’s friends – many of whom here exchange students themselves or hosted students. What a wonderful cultural experience we had. We decided to stay up until the end of the party to help clean. We finally got to bed at 4:00 a.m.! Bernard, Elia and the four children (Pablo, Diego, Juan, and Luna) left the next day for Spain.

I really hope we will keep in touch with Bernard, Elia and the family. We are more alike than different. Spending time with the Crutzen family was a highlight of our trip.

Pictures from the Past

This is probably the chruch Phil's family attended.



"Baur and Bauer" is also a family name. It looks as though some of Phil's family did not come to the USA 300 years ago, but stayed and became successful department store owners.



There were also many "Grimms" in Switzerland.



Looks like Wayne County, Ohio!

Genealogy Pictures

June 27, 2010
After doing some much needed cleaning of the car, we headed north to Germany. It was strange to see places like Munich, Stuttgart, and Nurnberg on road signs. We have driven quite a bit on the autobahn. Several people told us to avoid driving on the autobahn. It really has not been too bad. I would not like to do it alone – but Phil is a terrific and safe driver. The speed limit is around 130 km (~80 mph), but some people drive MUCH faster! You just need to be aware of your surroundings and not get distracted!

We got off the autobahn around Stuttgart and drove to a small town called Bad Rappenau. It seems to be the county seat.

We found a church and inquired about the cemetery. A woman told us where it was – but also told us that the traffic would be bad because there was a “public showing”. We assumed that she meant a funeral. Not quite.

Soon the town square was flooded with cars donning German flags, people beeping their horns, wearing yellow, red, and black body paint, blowing air horns, and groups of youth singing, “Ich liebe Deutschland!” Apparently, Germany had won their World Cup soccer match against England. It was very exciting and we stood back and watched the show! We were just glad that they had won – and not France (if they indeed had been playing France – because we are driving a car from France). Traveling in Europe during the world cup is a great idea – it always gives you something to talk about with limited vocabulary.

We eventually walked to the cemetery – because our car was blocked in by the throngs of those celebrating the victory. The cemeteries are beautiful. Many flowers, varied head stones, and very well attended. We found some more family names – like Grimm, Bauer, and Klingmann. We also found the Jewish cemetery which was separated some distance from the main cemetery – and not well cared for at all.

By this time we were starving. We looked for a restaurant – and tried to decipher the menu. Bill Bryson, in his book Neither From Here Nor There, says to be careful ordering random things off menus in Germany. You are likely to order various internal organs and other things not generally consumed in the US. Dishes with names of Unterorgans und other Grosserstuff should be avoided at all cost. We laughed because we had passed a Chinese place and decided if we ordered Moo Goo Gai Pan – they would understand what we wanted. We gave it a try – nope, it is not the same in German. We did learn how to say vegetables, chicken, etc in German and got a lovely meal all the same. Funny – they name of the owner is Ming – just like at our favorite restaurant in Orrville.

If we were just to take pictures of the farmland and scenery – one might believe we were in Wayne or Holmes Co. Ohio – or perhaps Pennsylvania. It is easy to see why Phil’s family ended up where they did when leaving Europe – There’s No Place Like Home.

We are staying at an older hotel in Bad Rappenau called the Hotel Alder – nice accommodations with breakfast. Tomorrow we will do some more genealogy and then head for Brussels.

Austria . . . Switzerland

June 23, 2010
What a terrific day we had today! Finally, summer decided to show! The weather was perfect for a lot of physical activity – sunny with a breeze and not too warm.

We met Laura at the train station and rented some bikes for the day. We then boarded a lovely, modern train and rode 25 minutes or so up the valley to Innichen (Sudtirol) / San Candido (Alto Adige), Italy. At Innichen, we stopped for a coffee at a café which was at the bottom of a ski resort. On the spur of the moment, we decided to take the chair lift up the mountain and ride the “fun-bob” down. The “fun-bob” is like an individual bobsled which travels on a track. It was a lot of fun. Phil and Laura K. descended the mountain very quickly – I chose to control my speed a bit and enjoy the scenery – including the bell-laden cattle. (Yes, Toto we are not in Kansas anymore – we are in the Alps!)

The bike ride back to Lienz, Austria was one of the best rides we have ever taken. It was about 50 km (about 31 miles), mostly down hill, along side a rushing river, through alpine meadows and mountains, and with wonderful people – what more could one ask for?

About 2/3rds of the way back to Lienz, we decided to stop our ride to partake in another athletic event. We rented climbing gear (harnesses, helmets, safety equipment, and carabineers) and climbed up a rock crevasse next to a waterfall. It was a predetermined route equipped with cables, and some rebar for foot and hand holds. The vertical was challenging – the view amazing. We discussed how this event would never have happened in the USA without many liability forms, a guide, and training – or at least the participants demonstrating their competence. In many ways, the Austrian society is based on the concept of responsibility – not law suits.

After our strenuous climb – we completed our bike trip back to Lienz. We returned our bikes and drove up to the local castle for a “look-see”.

In the evening, we were again invited to Laura’s mother’s apartment for a delicious meal and wonderful conversation. We also met her cousin, Philipp. We really have felt welcome with open arms in Austria.

PS. The mountain mentioned yesterday was Grossglockner.


June 24, 2010
After breaking camp this morning, we drove NW through Innsbruck, Austria and on to Zurich, Switzerland. It was a beautiful drive through the Italian and Swiss Alps. We drove through many tunnels – including one that was 14 km (about 9 miles) long. We could have taken the northern or southern route into Zurich – we decided to take the southern route just so we could drive through Lichtenstein . . . which took about 20 minutes.

We are staying with Portia Harold. She is a friend of my parents. She went to Medina High School with my mother and worked at a summer camp with my father. She is such a wonderful woman. We have enjoyed many conversations about a wide variety of topics including, literature, politics, Europe vs. America, history, ecology, environmental stewardship, etc. She has opened her home to us – it sure is nice sleeping in a bed.


June 25, 2010
Another lovely, warm, sunny day! We had a charming breakfast of French toast, bacon, and coffee on the veranda – almost overlooking the Zurich See.

We took a walk around noon up the hill by Portia’s home. It is fun for Phil and I to observe the agriculture. We will need to tell our Swiss neighbors that Swiss cattle really do wear bells.

This has been a relaxing day of doing laundry, cooking, reading, and taking naps – just what the doctor ordered.

Tomorrow, we will head to Basel, Switzerland to begin doing some “Grimm” genealogy research. We will stay in Portia’s son’s (Hardy’s) apartment. Portia said that Grimm and Neff are common names in this area as well.